[arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification
Sam Nabkey
sam.nabkey at gmail.com
Thu Jun 25 10:24:34 EST 2015
I would love to see your examples.
Thanks very much
S
On Jun 25, 2015 10:39 AM, "Peter Kendall" <g7rpg at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I've made a quite a few micro nodes for friends, been using £1 sound
> cards from eBay/China
>
> There is no soldering required to tiny surface mount parts.
>
> I use a gpio pin from the Pi to drive PTT directly on the BF888, this
> works ok for the low voltage sets, for 12v radios I use an opto coupler or
> mosfet (2n7000) to keep the pi gpio safe.
>
> COS (pull to ground) to the volume down button.
>
> PTT works using the events subsystem and a little program I wrote to pull
> the gpio pin (wiringPi 0) to ground.
>
> ;
> ; rpt.conf for Pi PTT
> [events]
> /usr/local/sbin/gp0on = s|t|RPT_TXKEYED
> /usr/local/sbin/gp0off = s|f|RPT_TXKEYED
> ;
> ;
>
> Have a look at my (cluttered) flickr site, some pics of the various builds.
>
> Blob fob with PTT (yellow) going to gpio pin of pi
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/
>
> COS example
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/
>
> Example node with 'blob fob' and pi PTT
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/
>
> Hope this maybe of some use?
>
> If anyone is interested I can email the two little programs gp0on and
> gp0off.
>
> Peter
> G7RPG
> Node 41689
>
>
> On 25/06/2015 15:04, Doug Crompton wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I understand the desire to try to put all the parts on the board put that
> is often a recipe for disaster and so much harder for most people.
> Absolutely minimizing what you do to the board is the best approach. I have
> done it both ways and cutting things or de-soldering things often leads to
> problems so when I realized how easy it was to do it this way I wanted to
> share it.
>
>
>
> *73 Doug WA3DSP http://www.crompton.com/hamradio
> <http://www.crompton.com/hamradio>*
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 23:39:30 -0700
> From: jim.pilgram at gmail.com
> To: arm-allstar at hamvoip.org
> Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification
>
> I've had better luck on the switches using a nipper and just simply
> cutting the 4 corners at the board. The less you have to put the soldering
> iron on the board, the less chance of lifting a trace. I also use the
> nippers to cut off all the jacks. All parts go on the board and a 5
> conductor cable is fed out one of the jack holes in the case. I use super
> glue to weld the buttons on the cover in place and reuse them. I've made
> about 25 of these to date for myself and our group. We are using primarily
> CDM series Motorola simplex nodes and I put them together including the
> motorola 20 pin connector for about $16.50 total price. I have them on 3
> motorola MTR2000's and they work great.
>
> I don't think I'd personally want to make a career out of building
> these but it was fun for a while and I only messed up 3 of them and that
> was the pin 13 wire connect. Once I started putting hot melt glue on them,
> I quit breaking off the lead.Jim
>
>
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE
> network.
> *From: *Larry
> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 24, 2015 20:32
> *To: *ARM Allstar
> *Reply To: *ARM Allstar
> *Subject: *Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification
>
> Pictured in Doug's previous FOB article:
>
> If you are squeamish about connecting to the CM-108 chip there really only
> needs to be a single wire added directly to the CM-108 chip. That is PTT
> (pin 13). COS (pin 48) is accessible on the left side (top or bottom
> solder joint) of SW1 (Vol DN). If you want/need more room to solder a wire
> take a needle and press it under each of the 4 corners of SW1 as you touch
> each corner with a soldering iron. The switch will lift right off and you
> will have the trace exposed under the left side of the button to make your
> connection to pin 48.
>
> CTCSS detect (pin 39) is available on the right side of SW2 (Vol UP). The
> same proceedure will work there if you want that signal.
>
> Larry - N7FM
>
>
> On 06/24/2015 12:28 PM, Doug Crompton wrote:
>
> Well to answer your two points. The link on the site for the FOB is not
> potted. It is the one shown in the photos. As far as soldering is concerned
> there are only two potentially tricky connections to the pins of the CM108
> but as I pointed out if you use the right size wire and tack it on it is
> not a big deal. You might be surprised how easy it is. At $3 each sacrifice
> one to experiment and maybe it won't even be a sacrifice! The rest of the
> components you can mount or build anyway you desire. It is shown in a DB25
> shell but that is certainly not a requirement. At first I was going to put
> a little perf board in there but then realized that most of the components
> could be mounted right of the connector.
>
>
>
> *73 Doug WA3DSP http://www.crompton.com/hamradio
> <http://www.crompton.com/hamradio>*
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 11:44:16 -0600
> From: mike at mtweb.net
> To: arm-allstar at hamvoip.org
> Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification
>
> On 6/24/2015 3:42 AM, Corey Dean wrote:
>
> One of the Main reasons I was looking for this in acid and now the pi2 is
> due to the blob. Some of us ordered a bunch just to find you could't get
> to the chip to modify it.
>
> Corey N3FE
>
> On Jun 24, 2015, at 2:11 AM, Doug Crompton <doug at crompton.com> wrote:
>
> I often get requests for GPIO control of COS and PTT on the BBB and
> RPi2. While we are going to have that capability in the next release at
> least for the RPi2 I often wonder why the great desire to do this and what
> the problem is with just modifying the FOB. No matter where the I/O control
> comes from you still have to build a minimal interface for the signals.
> Having it all come from one place, the FOB, has several advantages. One is
> you can use the code as it is now, the other is is you are not tying up I/O
> on the main board and running wires from two different places.
>
> In our testing I have built and tested it both ways GPIO from the RPi2 or
> the FOB and I honestly think it is easier to just modify the FOB. I have
> written an article showing an easy way to modify the FOB that I think most
> hams who have soldering and small construction experience could handle. It
> saves you about $70/node to do this and a couple of hours of your time. The
> article is in the how-to section at hamvoip.org
>
> Here is a direct link to it -
>
> http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/
>
> So give it a try. You certainly don't have much to lose at about $3.50 in
> single quantities!
>
> I would be glad to answer any questions you may have about this project.
>
>
>
> *73 Doug WA3DSP http://www.crompton.com/hamradio
> <http://www.crompton.com/hamradio>*
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
> For me, it is my eye site, isn't as good as it use to be and everything
> has gotten way to small.
> Just finished up building a controller and had to use a 5x magnifier. At
> least when you bread board stuff you can space things 2 microns further
> apart than half an atom:)
> I think most hams are older now. I don't see the younger crowd getting in
> to the hobby, sad to say. So size of stuff is more important to me now.
> As I wont tackle a project that requires a lot of smt components.
> Mike
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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