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<body class='hmmessage'><div dir='ltr'><font style="" color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">See the GPIO how-to I put out on the web site several weeks ago for more info.<br id="FontBreak"></font><br><b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><br><br><div><hr id="stopSpelling">Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2015 20:00:47 +0100<br>From: g7rpg@hotmail.com<br>To: arm-allstar@hamvoip.org<br>Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification<br><br>
I've learnt something new today, didn't know you could do that so
easily.<br>
<br>
<div class="ecxmoz-cite-prefix">On 25/06/2015 19:06, Doug Crompton
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:BLU171-W960E2DA8701A315019B2D2BAAE0@phx.gbl">
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<div dir="ltr"><font style="" color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Am I missing something here? Why not
just use the wiringpi command line gpio commands?<br>
<br>
gpio mode <pin> in<br>
gpio mode <pin> up<br>
<br>
for input or for output<br>
<br>
gpio mode <pin> out<br>
gpio mode <pin> 1|0<br id="ecxFontBreak">
</font><font style="" face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</font><font style="" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">These could be
put in a script and called from Asterisk.</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a class="ecxmoz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr id="ecxstopSpelling">Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2015 17:16:02 +0100<br>
From: <a class="ecxmoz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:g7rpg@hotmail.com">g7rpg@hotmail.com</a><br>
To: <a class="ecxmoz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification<br>
<br>
Here is the code example to switch the pin to ground.<br>
<br>
I've attached the two pi binaries, its wiringpi pin 0 btw.<br>
<br>
you'll need to add the event in rpt.conf and then watch the
pin and you'll see it goes to ground on PTT.<br>
<br>
you could always have that pin go high +3.3v by modifying the
code.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
#include <wiringPi.h><br>
#include <stdlib.h><br>
int main (void)<br>
{<br>
wiringPiSetup () ;<br>
pinMode (0, OUTPUT) ;<br>
<br>
{<br>
digitalWrite (0, LOW) ;<br>
}<br>
exit (0) ;<br>
}<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="ecxmoz-cite-prefix">On 25/06/2015 16:24, Sam
Nabkey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:CAO8Aawp7ghEZpBwz6Mn2aETSZEPVPA2zWTFGeWs=zeQASGUsVg@mail.gmail.com">
<p dir="ltr">I would love to see your examples. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Thanks very much </p>
<p dir="ltr">S<br>
</p>
<div class="ecxgmail_quote">On Jun 25, 2015 10:39 AM, "Peter
Kendall" <<a href="mailto:g7rpg@hotmail.com">g7rpg@hotmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="ecxgmail_quote" style="border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div> I've made a quite a few micro nodes for friends,
been using £1 sound cards from eBay/China<br>
<br>
There is no soldering required to tiny surface mount
parts.<br>
<br>
I use a gpio pin from the Pi to drive PTT directly on
the BF888, this works ok for the low voltage sets, for
12v radios I use an opto coupler or mosfet (2n7000) to
keep the pi gpio safe. <br>
<br>
COS (pull to ground) to the volume down button.<br>
<br>
PTT works using the events subsystem and a little
program I wrote to pull the gpio pin (wiringPi 0) to
ground. <br>
<br>
;<br>
; rpt.conf for Pi PTT<br>
[events]<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0on = s|t|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0off = s|f|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
;<br>
;<br>
<br>
Have a look at my (cluttered) flickr site, some pics
of the various builds.<br>
<br>
Blob fob with PTT (yellow) going to gpio pin of pi<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
COS example<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Example node with 'blob fob' and pi PTT<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Hope this maybe of some use?<br>
<br>
If anyone is interested I can email the two little
programs gp0on and gp0off.<br>
<br>
Peter<br>
G7RPG<br>
Node 41689<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 25/06/2015 15:04, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Jim,<br>
<br>
I understand the desire to try to put all the
parts on the board put that is often a recipe
for disaster and so much harder for most people.
Absolutely minimizing what you do to the board
is the best approach. I have done it both ways
and cutting things or de-soldering things often
leads to problems so when I realized how easy it
was to do it this way I wanted to share it.<br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 23:39:30 -0700<br>
From: <a href="mailto:jim.pilgram@gmail.com" target="_blank">jim.pilgram@gmail.com</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB
modification<br>
<br>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">I've
had better luck on the switches using a nipper
and just simply cutting the 4 corners at the
board. The less you have to put the soldering
iron on the board, the less chance of lifting
a trace. I also use the nippers to cut off all
the jacks. All parts go on the board and a 5
conductor cable is fed out one of the jack
holes in the case. I use super glue to weld
the buttons on the cover in place and reuse
them. ŭI've made about 25 of these to date for
myself and our group. We are using primarily
CDM series Motorola simplex nodes and I put
them together including the motorola 20 pin
connector for about $16.50 total price. I have
them on 3 motorola MTR2000's and they work
great. </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">I
don't think I'd personally want to make aŭ
career out of building these but it was fun
for a while and I only messed up 3 of them and
that was the pin 13 wire connect. Once I
started putting hot melt glue on them, I quit
breaking off the lead.Jim </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"> </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on
the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.</div>
<table style="background-color:white;border-spacing:0px;" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" style="font-size:initial;text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">
<div>
<div><b>From: </b>Larry</div>
<div><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, June 24,
2015 20:32</div>
<div><b>To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Reply To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Subject: </b>Re:
[arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB
modification</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
<div style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">
<div>Pictured in Doug's previous FOB article:
<br>
<br>
If you are squeamish about connecting to the
CM-108 chip there really only needs to be a
single wire added directly to the CM-108
chip. That is PTT (pin 13). COS (pin 48) is
accessible on the left side (top or bottom
solder joint) of SW1 (Vol DN). If you
want/need more room to solder a wire take a
needle and press it under each of the 4
corners of SW1 as you touch each corner with
a soldering iron. The switch will lift right
off and you will have the trace exposed
under the left side of the button to make
your connection to pin 48.<br>
<br>
CTCSS detect (pin 39) is available on the
right side of SW2 (Vol UP). The same
proceedure will work there if you want that
signal.<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM <br>
<br>
<br>
On 06/24/2015 12:28 PM, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Well to answer
your two points. The link on the site
for the FOB is not potted. It is the one
shown in the photos. As far as soldering
is concerned there are only two
potentially tricky connections to the
pins of the CM108 but as I pointed out
if you use the right size wire and tack
it on it is not a big deal. You might be
surprised how easy it is. At $3 each
sacrifice one to experiment and maybe it
won't even be a sacrifice! The rest of
the components you can mount or build
anyway you desire. It is shown in a DB25
shell but that is certainly not a
requirement. At first I was going to put
a little perf board in there but then
realized that most of the components
could be mounted right of the connector.
<br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73
Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 11:44:16
-0600<br>
From: <a href="mailto:mike@mtweb.net" target="_blank">mike@mtweb.net</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified
USB FOB modification<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/24/2015 3:42 AM, Corey Dean
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>One of the Main reasons I was
looking for this in acid and now the
pi2 is due to the blob. Some of us
ordered a bunch just to find you
could't get to the chip to modify
it.<br>
<br>
Corey N3FE</div>
<div><br>
On Jun 24, 2015, at 2:11 AM, Doug
Crompton <<a href="mailto:doug@crompton.com" target="_blank">doug@crompton.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I
often get requests for GPIO
control of COS and PTT on the
BBB and RPi2. While we are
going to have that capability
in the next release at least
for the RPi2 I often wonder
why the great desire to do
this and what the problem is
with just modifying the FOB.
No matter where the I/O
control comes from you still
have to build a minimal
interface for the signals.
Having it all come from one
place, the FOB, has several
advantages. One is you can use
the code as it is now, the
other is is you are not tying
up I/O on the main board and
running wires from two
different places.<br>
<br>
In our testing I have built
and tested it both ways GPIO
from the RPi2 or the FOB and I
honestly think it is easier to
just modify the FOB. I have
written an article showing an
easy way to modify the FOB
that I think most hams who
have soldering and small
construction experience could
handle. It saves you about
$70/node to do this and a
couple of hours of your time.
The article is in the how-to
section at <a href="http://hamvoip.org" target="_blank">hamvoip.org</a>
<br>
<br>
Here is a direct link to it -<br>
<br>
<a href="http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/" target="_blank">http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/</a><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">So
give it a try. You certainly
don't have much to lose at
about $3.50 in single
quantities!</font><br>
<br>
<font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I
would be glad to answer any
questions you may have about
this projec</font>t.<br>
<br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font> </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
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</blockquote>
For me, it is my eye site, isn't as good
as it use to be and everything has
gotten way to small.<br>
Just finished up building a controller
and had to use a 5x magnifier. At least
when you bread board stuff you can space
things 2 microns further apart than half
an atom:)<br>
I think most hams are older now. I
don't see the younger crowd getting in
to the hobby, sad to say. So size of
stuff is more important to me now. As I
wont tackle a project that requires a
lot of smt components.<br>
Mike<br>
<br>
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