<p dir="ltr">I would love to see your examples. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Thanks very much </p>
<p dir="ltr">S<br></p>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Jun 25, 2015 10:39 AM, "Peter Kendall" <<a href="mailto:g7rpg@hotmail.com">g7rpg@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
I've made a quite a few micro nodes for friends, been using £1 sound
cards from eBay/China<br>
<br>
There is no soldering required to tiny surface mount parts.<br>
<br>
I use a gpio pin from the Pi to drive PTT directly on the BF888,
this works ok for the low voltage sets, for 12v radios I use an opto
coupler or mosfet (2n7000) to keep the pi gpio safe. <br>
<br>
COS (pull to ground) to the volume down button.<br>
<br>
PTT works using the events subsystem and a little program I wrote to
pull the gpio pin (wiringPi 0) to ground. <br>
<br>
;<br>
; rpt.conf for Pi PTT<br>
[events]<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0on = s|t|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0off = s|f|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
;<br>
;<br>
<br>
Have a look at my (cluttered) flickr site, some pics of the various
builds.<br>
<br>
Blob fob with PTT (yellow) going to gpio pin of pi<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
COS example<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Example node with 'blob fob' and pi PTT<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Hope this maybe of some use?<br>
<br>
If anyone is interested I can email the two little programs gp0on
and gp0off.<br>
<br>
Peter<br>
G7RPG<br>
Node 41689<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 25/06/2015 15:04, Doug Crompton
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Jim,<br>
<br>
I understand the desire to try to put all the parts on the
board put that is often a recipe for disaster and so much
harder for most people. Absolutely minimizing what you do to
the board is the best approach. I have done it both ways and
cutting things or de-soldering things often leads to problems
so when I realized how easy it was to do it this way I wanted
to share it.<br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 23:39:30 -0700<br>
From: <a href="mailto:jim.pilgram@gmail.com" target="_blank">jim.pilgram@gmail.com</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification<br>
<br>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">I've had better luck on the switches using a nipper
and just simply cutting the 4 corners at the board. The less
you have to put the soldering iron on the board, the less
chance of lifting a trace. I also use the nippers to cut off
all the jacks. All parts go on the board and a 5 conductor
cable is fed out one of the jack holes in the case. I use
super glue to weld the buttons on the cover in place and
reuse them. I've made about 25 of these to date for myself
and our group. We are using primarily CDM series Motorola
simplex nodes and I put them together including the motorola
20 pin connector for about $16.50 total price. I have them
on 3 motorola MTR2000's and they work great. </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">I don't think I'd personally want to make a career
out of building these but it was fun for a while and I only
messed up 3 of them and that was the pin 13 wire connect.
Once I started putting hot melt glue on them, I quit
breaking off the lead.Jim </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"> </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon
Wireless 4G LTE network.</div>
<table style="background-color:white;border-spacing:0px" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" style="font-size:initial;text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div>
<div><b>From: </b>Larry</div>
<div><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, June 24, 2015 20:32</div>
<div><b>To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Reply To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Subject: </b>Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified
USB FOB modification</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
<div style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div>Pictured in Doug's previous
FOB article: <br>
<br>
If you are squeamish about connecting to the CM-108 chip
there really only needs to be a single wire added directly
to the CM-108 chip. That is PTT (pin 13). COS (pin 48) is
accessible on the left side (top or bottom solder joint)
of SW1 (Vol DN). If you want/need more room to solder a
wire take a needle and press it under each of the 4
corners of SW1 as you touch each corner with a soldering
iron. The switch will lift right off and you will have the
trace exposed under the left side of the button to make
your connection to pin 48.<br>
<br>
CTCSS detect (pin 39) is available on the right side of
SW2 (Vol UP). The same proceedure will work there if you
want that signal.<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM <br>
<br>
<br>
On 06/24/2015 12:28 PM, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Well to answer your two
points. The link on the site for the FOB is not
potted. It is the one shown in the photos. As far as
soldering is concerned there are only two potentially
tricky connections to the pins of the CM108 but as I
pointed out if you use the right size wire and tack it
on it is not a big deal. You might be surprised how
easy it is. At $3 each sacrifice one to experiment and
maybe it won't even be a sacrifice! The rest of the
components you can mount or build anyway you desire.
It is shown in a DB25 shell but that is certainly not
a requirement. At first I was going to put a little
perf board in there but then realized that most of the
components could be mounted right of the connector. <br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015
11:44:16 -0600<br>
From: <a href="mailto:mike@mtweb.net" target="_blank">mike@mtweb.net</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB
modification<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/24/2015 3:42 AM,
Corey Dean wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>One of the Main reasons I was looking for this
in acid and now the pi2 is due to the blob. Some
of us ordered a bunch just to find you could't get
to the chip to modify it.<br>
<br>
Corey N3FE</div>
<div><br>
On Jun 24, 2015, at 2:11 AM, Doug Crompton <<a href="mailto:doug@crompton.com" target="_blank">doug@crompton.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I often get
requests for GPIO control of COS and PTT on
the BBB and RPi2. While we are going to have
that capability in the next release at least
for the RPi2 I often wonder why the great
desire to do this and what the problem is
with just modifying the FOB. No matter where
the I/O control comes from you still have to
build a minimal interface for the signals.
Having it all come from one place, the FOB,
has several advantages. One is you can use
the code as it is now, the other is is you
are not tying up I/O on the main board and
running wires from two different places.<br>
<br>
In our testing I have built and tested it
both ways GPIO from the RPi2 or the FOB and
I honestly think it is easier to just modify
the FOB. I have written an article showing
an easy way to modify the FOB that I think
most hams who have soldering and small
construction experience could handle. It
saves you about $70/node to do this and a
couple of hours of your time. The article is
in the how-to section at <a href="http://hamvoip.org" target="_blank">hamvoip.org</a>
<br>
<br>
Here is a direct link to it -<br>
<br>
<a href="http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/" target="_blank">http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/</a><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">So
give it a try. You certainly don't have much
to lose at about $3.50 in single quantities!</font><br>
<br>
<font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I
would be glad to answer any questions you
may have about this projec</font>t.<br>
<br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">73
Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font> </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
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</blockquote>
For me, it is my eye site, isn't as good as it use to
be and everything has gotten way to small.<br>
Just finished up building a controller and had to use
a 5x magnifier. At least when you bread board stuff
you can space things 2 microns further apart than half
an atom:)<br>
I think most hams are older now. I don't see the
younger crowd getting in to the hobby, sad to say. So
size of stuff is more important to me now. As I wont
tackle a project that requires a lot of smt
components.<br>
Mike<br>
<br>
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