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<body class='hmmessage'><div dir='ltr'><font style="" color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Am I missing something here? Why not just use the wiringpi command line gpio commands?<br><br>gpio mode <pin> in<br>gpio mode <pin> up<br><br>for input or for output<br><br>gpio mode <pin> out<br>gpio mode <pin> 1|0<br id="FontBreak"></font><font style="" face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br></font><font style="" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">These could be put in a script and called from Asterisk.</font><br><br><br><b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br></font><br><br><div><hr id="stopSpelling">Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2015 17:16:02 +0100<br>From: g7rpg@hotmail.com<br>To: arm-allstar@hamvoip.org<br>Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB modification<br><br>
Here is the code example to switch the pin to ground.<br>
<br>
I've attached the two pi binaries, its wiringpi pin 0 btw.<br>
<br>
you'll need to add the event in rpt.conf and then watch the pin and
you'll see it goes to ground on PTT.<br>
<br>
you could always have that pin go high +3.3v by modifying the code.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
#include <wiringPi.h><br>
#include <stdlib.h><br>
int main (void)<br>
{<br>
wiringPiSetup () ;<br>
pinMode (0, OUTPUT) ;<br>
<br>
{<br>
digitalWrite (0, LOW) ;<br>
}<br>
exit (0) ;<br>
}<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="ecxmoz-cite-prefix">On 25/06/2015 16:24, Sam Nabkey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:CAO8Aawp7ghEZpBwz6Mn2aETSZEPVPA2zWTFGeWs=zeQASGUsVg@mail.gmail.com">
<p dir="ltr">I would love to see your examples. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Thanks very much </p>
<p dir="ltr">S<br>
</p>
<div class="ecxgmail_quote">On Jun 25, 2015 10:39 AM, "Peter Kendall"
<<a href="mailto:g7rpg@hotmail.com">g7rpg@hotmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="ecxgmail_quote" style="border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div> I've made a quite a few
micro nodes for friends, been using £1 sound cards from
eBay/China<br>
<br>
There is no soldering required to tiny surface mount parts.<br>
<br>
I use a gpio pin from the Pi to drive PTT directly on the
BF888, this works ok for the low voltage sets, for 12v
radios I use an opto coupler or mosfet (2n7000) to keep the
pi gpio safe. <br>
<br>
COS (pull to ground) to the volume down button.<br>
<br>
PTT works using the events subsystem and a little program I
wrote to pull the gpio pin (wiringPi 0) to ground. <br>
<br>
;<br>
; rpt.conf for Pi PTT<br>
[events]<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0on = s|t|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0off = s|f|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
;<br>
;<br>
<br>
Have a look at my (cluttered) flickr site, some pics of the
various builds.<br>
<br>
Blob fob with PTT (yellow) going to gpio pin of pi<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
COS example<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Example node with 'blob fob' and pi PTT<br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264%40N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Hope this maybe of some use?<br>
<br>
If anyone is interested I can email the two little programs
gp0on and gp0off.<br>
<br>
Peter<br>
G7RPG<br>
Node 41689<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 25/06/2015 15:04, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Jim,<br>
<br>
I understand the desire to try to put all the parts
on the board put that is often a recipe for disaster
and so much harder for most people. Absolutely
minimizing what you do to the board is the best
approach. I have done it both ways and cutting things
or de-soldering things often leads to problems so when
I realized how easy it was to do it this way I wanted
to share it.<br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 23:39:30 -0700<br>
From: <a href="mailto:jim.pilgram@gmail.com" target="_blank">jim.pilgram@gmail.com</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB
modification<br>
<br>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">I've
had better luck on the switches using a nipper and
just simply cutting the 4 corners at the board. The
less you have to put the soldering iron on the
board, the less chance of lifting a trace. I also
use the nippers to cut off all the jacks. All parts
go on the board and a 5 conductor cable is fed out
one of the jack holes in the case. I use super glue
to weld the buttons on the cover in place and reuse
them. ŭI've made about 25 of these to date for
myself and our group. We are using primarily CDM
series Motorola simplex nodes and I put them
together including the motorola 20 pin connector for
about $16.50 total price. I have them on 3 motorola
MTR2000's and they work great. </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">I
don't think I'd personally want to make aŭ career
out of building these but it was fun for a while and
I only messed up 3 of them and that was the pin 13
wire connect. Once I started putting hot melt glue
on them, I quit breaking off the lead.Jim </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"> </div>
<div style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the
Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.</div>
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<td colspan="2" style="font-size:initial;text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">
<div>
<div><b>From: </b>Larry</div>
<div><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, June 24, 2015
20:32</div>
<div><b>To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Reply To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Subject: </b>Re: [arm-allstar] A
simplified USB FOB modification</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
<div style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">
<div>Pictured in Doug's previous FOB article: <br>
<br>
If you are squeamish about connecting to the
CM-108 chip there really only needs to be a single
wire added directly to the CM-108 chip. That is
PTT (pin 13). COS (pin 48) is accessible on the
left side (top or bottom solder joint) of SW1 (Vol
DN). If you want/need more room to solder a wire
take a needle and press it under each of the 4
corners of SW1 as you touch each corner with a
soldering iron. The switch will lift right off and
you will have the trace exposed under the left
side of the button to make your connection to pin
48.<br>
<br>
CTCSS detect (pin 39) is available on the right
side of SW2 (Vol UP). The same proceedure will
work there if you want that signal.<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM <br>
<br>
<br>
On 06/24/2015 12:28 PM, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Well to answer your
two points. The link on the site for the FOB
is not potted. It is the one shown in the
photos. As far as soldering is concerned there
are only two potentially tricky connections to
the pins of the CM108 but as I pointed out if
you use the right size wire and tack it on it
is not a big deal. You might be surprised how
easy it is. At $3 each sacrifice one to
experiment and maybe it won't even be a
sacrifice! The rest of the components you can
mount or build anyway you desire. It is shown
in a DB25 shell but that is certainly not a
requirement. At first I was going to put a
little perf board in there but then realized
that most of the components could be mounted
right of the connector. <br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 11:44:16 -0600<br>
From: <a href="mailto:mike@mtweb.net" target="_blank">mike@mtweb.net</a><br>
To: <a href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org" target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB
FOB modification<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/24/2015 3:42 AM, Corey Dean wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>One of the Main reasons I was looking
for this in acid and now the pi2 is due to
the blob. Some of us ordered a bunch just
to find you could't get to the chip to
modify it.<br>
<br>
Corey N3FE</div>
<div><br>
On Jun 24, 2015, at 2:11 AM, Doug Crompton
<<a href="mailto:doug@crompton.com" target="_blank">doug@crompton.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I often get
requests for GPIO control of COS and
PTT on the BBB and RPi2. While we
are going to have that capability in
the next release at least for the
RPi2 I often wonder why the great
desire to do this and what the
problem is with just modifying the
FOB. No matter where the I/O control
comes from you still have to build a
minimal interface for the signals.
Having it all come from one place,
the FOB, has several advantages. One
is you can use the code as it is
now, the other is is you are not
tying up I/O on the main board and
running wires from two different
places.<br>
<br>
In our testing I have built and
tested it both ways GPIO from the
RPi2 or the FOB and I honestly think
it is easier to just modify the FOB.
I have written an article showing an
easy way to modify the FOB that I
think most hams who have soldering
and small construction experience
could handle. It saves you about
$70/node to do this and a couple of
hours of your time. The article is
in the how-to section at <a href="http://hamvoip.org" target="_blank">hamvoip.org</a> <br>
<br>
Here is a direct link to it -<br>
<br>
<a href="http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/" target="_blank">http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/</a><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</font><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">So
give it a try. You certainly don't
have much to lose at about $3.50 in
single quantities!</font><br>
<br>
<font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I would
be glad to answer any questions you
may have about this projec</font>t.<br>
<br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">73 Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font style="font-size:16pt;" size="4"><br>
</font> </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
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</blockquote>
For me, it is my eye site, isn't as good as it
use to be and everything has gotten way to
small.<br>
Just finished up building a controller and had
to use a 5x magnifier. At least when you
bread board stuff you can space things 2
microns further apart than half an atom:)<br>
I think most hams are older now. I don't see
the younger crowd getting in to the hobby, sad
to say. So size of stuff is more important to
me now. As I wont tackle a project that
requires a lot of smt components.<br>
Mike<br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
</div>
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</blockquote>
<br>
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