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MASSIVE CORRECTION!<br>
<br>
I've posted the code, see below.<br>
<br>
to compile you need to link the wiringpi library so the command
would be...<br>
<br>
cc -o gp0xx gp0xx.c -I/usr/local/include -L/usr/local/lib -lwiringPi<br>
<br>
Pin mode is the mode of the gpio pin i.e wiringPi 0 in this example.<br>
<br>
digitalWrite 0,LOW = 0v or grounded or logic low<br>
digitalWrite 0,HIGH =3.3v or logic high<br>
<br>
you could use 3.3v to turn on a mosfet and drive anything.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 25/06/2015 17:41, Larry wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:E8VZK.3618d54148.558C2F2B.5030203@thunderbolt.net"
type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Thanks Peter,<br>
<br>
Any chance you would share the source code for the GPIO off and
on?<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 06/25/2015 09:16 AM, Peter Kendall wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:BLU436-SMTP23592B5435DE2680D8B3D1DFAAE0@phx.gbl"
type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
Here is the code example to switch the pin to ground.<br>
<br>
I've attached the two pi binaries, its wiringpi pin 0 btw.<br>
<br>
you'll need to add the event in rpt.conf and then watch the pin
and you'll see it goes to ground on PTT.<br>
<br>
you could always have that pin go high +3.3v by modifying the
code.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
#include <wiringPi.h><br>
#include <stdlib.h><br>
int main (void)<br>
{<br>
wiringPiSetup () ;<br>
pinMode (0, OUTPUT) ;<br>
<br>
{<br>
digitalWrite (0, LOW) ;<br>
}<br>
exit (0) ;<br>
}<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 25/06/2015 16:24, Sam Nabkey
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAO8Aawp7ghEZpBwz6Mn2aETSZEPVPA2zWTFGeWs=zeQASGUsVg@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<p dir="ltr">I would love to see your examples. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Thanks very much </p>
<p dir="ltr">S<br>
</p>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Jun 25, 2015 10:39 AM, "Peter
Kendall" <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:g7rpg@hotmail.com">g7rpg@hotmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br type="attribution">
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000"> I've made a quite a
few micro nodes for friends, been using £1 sound cards
from eBay/China<br>
<br>
There is no soldering required to tiny surface mount
parts.<br>
<br>
I use a gpio pin from the Pi to drive PTT directly on
the BF888, this works ok for the low voltage sets, for
12v radios I use an opto coupler or mosfet (2n7000) to
keep the pi gpio safe. <br>
<br>
COS (pull to ground) to the volume down button.<br>
<br>
PTT works using the events subsystem and a little
program I wrote to pull the gpio pin (wiringPi 0) to
ground. <br>
<br>
;<br>
; rpt.conf for Pi PTT<br>
[events]<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0on = s|t|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
/usr/local/sbin/gp0off = s|f|RPT_TXKEYED<br>
;<br>
;<br>
<br>
Have a look at my (cluttered) flickr site, some pics of
the various builds.<br>
<br>
Blob fob with PTT (yellow) going to gpio pin of pi<br>
<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/"
target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18126465794/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
COS example<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/"
target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/17197162979/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Example node with 'blob fob' and pi PTT<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/"
target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/127794264@N08/18458513778/in/datetaken-public/</a><br>
<br>
Hope this maybe of some use?<br>
<br>
If anyone is interested I can email the two little
programs gp0on and gp0off.<br>
<br>
Peter<br>
G7RPG<br>
Node 41689<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 25/06/2015 15:04, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000"
face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Jim,<br>
<br>
I understand the desire to try to put all the
parts on the board put that is often a recipe for
disaster and so much harder for most people.
Absolutely minimizing what you do to the board is
the best approach. I have done it both ways and
cutting things or de-soldering things often leads
to problems so when I realized how easy it was to
do it this way I wanted to share it.<br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">73 Doug</font><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">WA3DSP</font><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio"
target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 23:39:30 -0700<br>
From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:jim.pilgram@gmail.com"
target="_blank">jim.pilgram@gmail.com</a><br>
To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org"
target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified USB FOB
modification<br>
<br>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">I've
had better luck on the switches using a nipper
and just simply cutting the 4 corners at the
board. The less you have to put the soldering
iron on the board, the less chance of lifting a
trace. I also use the nippers to cut off all the
jacks. All parts go on the board and a 5
conductor cable is fed out one of the jack holes
in the case. I use super glue to weld the
buttons on the cover in place and reuse them.
I've made about 25 of these to date for myself
and our group. We are using primarily CDM series
Motorola simplex nodes and I put them together
including the motorola 20 pin connector for
about $16.50 total price. I have them on 3
motorola MTR2000's and they work great. </div>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">I
don't think I'd personally want to make a
career out of building these but it was fun for
a while and I only messed up 3 of them and that
was the pin 13 wire connect. Once I started
putting hot melt glue on them, I quit breaking
off the lead.Jim </div>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"> </div>
<div
style="width:100%;font-size:initial;font-family:Calibri,'Slate
Pro',sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125);text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the
Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.</div>
<table
style="background-color:white;border-spacing:0px"
width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"
style="font-size:initial;text-align:initial;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div>
<div><b>From: </b>Larry</div>
<div><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, June 24,
2015 20:32</div>
<div><b>To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Reply To: </b>ARM Allstar</div>
<div><b>Subject: </b>Re: [arm-allstar]
A simplified USB FOB modification</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
<div style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div>Pictured in Doug's previous FOB article: <br>
<br>
If you are squeamish about connecting to the
CM-108 chip there really only needs to be a
single wire added directly to the CM-108 chip.
That is PTT (pin 13). COS (pin 48) is
accessible on the left side (top or bottom
solder joint) of SW1 (Vol DN). If you
want/need more room to solder a wire take a
needle and press it under each of the 4
corners of SW1 as you touch each corner with a
soldering iron. The switch will lift right off
and you will have the trace exposed under the
left side of the button to make your
connection to pin 48.<br>
<br>
CTCSS detect (pin 39) is available on the
right side of SW2 (Vol UP). The same
proceedure will work there if you want that
signal.<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM <br>
<br>
<br>
On 06/24/2015 12:28 PM, Doug Crompton wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000"
face="Tahoma,sans-serif">Well to answer
your two points. The link on the site for
the FOB is not potted. It is the one shown
in the photos. As far as soldering is
concerned there are only two potentially
tricky connections to the pins of the
CM108 but as I pointed out if you use the
right size wire and tack it on it is not a
big deal. You might be surprised how easy
it is. At $3 each sacrifice one to
experiment and maybe it won't even be a
sacrifice! The rest of the components you
can mount or build anyway you desire. It
is shown in a DB25 shell but that is
certainly not a requirement. At first I
was going to put a little perf board in
there but then realized that most of the
components could be mounted right of the
connector. <br>
</font><br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt" size="4">73
Doug</font><font style="font-size:16pt"
size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt"
size="4">WA3DSP</font><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><font style="font-size:16pt"
size="4"><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio"
target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font><br>
<br>
<div>
<hr>Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2015 11:44:16 -0600<br>
From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:mike@mtweb.net"
target="_blank">mike@mtweb.net</a><br>
To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:arm-allstar@hamvoip.org"
target="_blank">arm-allstar@hamvoip.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [arm-allstar] A simplified
USB FOB modification<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/24/2015 3:42 AM, Corey Dean
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>One of the Main reasons I was
looking for this in acid and now the
pi2 is due to the blob. Some of us
ordered a bunch just to find you
could't get to the chip to modify it.<br>
<br>
Corey N3FE</div>
<div><br>
On Jun 24, 2015, at 2:11 AM, Doug
Crompton <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:doug@crompton.com"
target="_blank">doug@crompton.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><font color="#000000"
face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I often
get requests for GPIO control of
COS and PTT on the BBB and RPi2.
While we are going to have that
capability in the next release
at least for the RPi2 I often
wonder why the great desire to
do this and what the problem is
with just modifying the FOB. No
matter where the I/O control
comes from you still have to
build a minimal interface for
the signals. Having it all come
from one place, the FOB, has
several advantages. One is you
can use the code as it is now,
the other is is you are not
tying up I/O on the main board
and running wires from two
different places.<br>
<br>
In our testing I have built and
tested it both ways GPIO from
the RPi2 or the FOB and I
honestly think it is easier to
just modify the FOB. I have
written an article showing an
easy way to modify the FOB that
I think most hams who have
soldering and small construction
experience could handle. It
saves you about $70/node to do
this and a couple of hours of
your time. The article is in the
how-to section at <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://hamvoip.org"
target="_blank">hamvoip.org</a>
<br>
<br>
Here is a direct link to it -<br>
<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/"
target="_blank">http://crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_simple_modification/</a><br>
</font><font
face="Tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</font><font
face="Tahoma,sans-serif">So give
it a try. You certainly don't
have much to lose at about $3.50
in single quantities!</font><br>
<br>
<font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">I
would be glad to answer any
questions you may have about
this projec</font>t.<br>
<br>
<b><font style="font-size:16pt"
size="4">73 Doug</font><font
style="font-size:16pt"
size="4"><br>
</font><font
style="font-size:16pt"
size="4">WA3DSP</font><font
style="font-size:16pt"
size="4"><br>
</font><font
style="font-size:16pt"
size="4"><a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio"
target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio</a></font></b><font
style="font-size:16pt" size="4"><br>
</font> </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
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For me, it is my eye site, isn't as good
as it use to be and everything has gotten
way to small.<br>
Just finished up building a controller and
had to use a 5x magnifier. At least when
you bread board stuff you can space things
2 microns further apart than half an
atom:)<br>
I think most hams are older now. I don't
see the younger crowd getting in to the
hobby, sad to say. So size of stuff is
more important to me now. As I wont
tackle a project that requires a lot of
smt components.<br>
Mike<br>
<br>
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